Ayahuasca 2 y 3. June 22, 2008
Posted by andeandaremos in Español, Peru.Tags: ayahuasca iquitos
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Ya en Tarapoto nos ofrecieron tomar ayahuasca. Ya sabeis, esa bebida amarga que ritualizada te puede llevar a niveles de espiritualidad estratosfèricos.
Yo ya había tomado. Fue en Brasil el año pasado, en un lugar llamado Alter do Chao. Aquella vez fue increible-sentí amor como nunca, lloré de compasión por mis seres queridos, el mundo me acogió en su ternura. Debido a esto esperaba la segunda oportunidad con una mezcla de gozo y miedo de no colmar mis expectativas.
En Lagunas nos ofrecieron otra vez. La ocasión pintaba bien, tomaríamos despues de nuestro 4 dias en la naturaleza. Luis, nuestro anfitrión en Lagunas nos guió al lugar de la ceremonia. El escenario me desconcertó en el acto. Sentados en unos bancos incómodos, en una pequeña sala lleno de mosquitos, el chaman no nos dijo ni buenos dias, ni buenas tardes, ni quede usted con dios-vamos que no nos dirigió la palabra. Un molesto ruido de generador nos acompañó toda la velada.
El ritual también me dejó tambien fuera de juego. El chamán bendice con cantos un tabaco, nos sirve la ayahuasca, canta más. Una vez ya te ha “subido” el buen hombre te viene a soplar tabaco en la coronilla, espalda y pecho. Con esto se supone que se anulan los efectos nauseantes de la bebida.
A Peter se le hizo bastante cuesta arriba. Vómitos y deposiciones varias, solo tuvo un rato de viaje. Yo tuve un viaje más largo, pero no llegué ni por asomo los niveles de la primera vez. Besaba el espacio y sonreia pidiendo por favor la gracia de aquella vez. Esta vez tuve muchas visiones, algunas inmensamente bonitas, otras mas ridículas. Parece que el hecho de estar incómodo en ese lugar y pendiente de Peter me distrajo en mi camino.
Lo mejor con diferencia fue el amor y ternura que senti por él. Rememoré un poco que pasó por mis entretelas cuando lo conocí, e hice consciente porque a día de hoy estoy a su lado. Ahí es nada.
Pero como he dicho, esta experiencia con el shaman no fue santo de mi devoción. En mi opinión el shaman enfoca la experiencia a la curación, y cree en agentes externos (espiritus negativos) que debemos eliminar o evitar. No comparto nada de lo anterior. Además el hecho de que no nos hiciera sentir cómodos en el lugar y que no nos explicara nada de nada empeoró la situación.
Nos fuimos del tugurio tambaleandonos, casi huyendo del panorama (había otros paisanos que habían tomado y que comentaban la jugada delante nuestro sin ningún respeto) . Acabé vomitando y defecando horrible tambien, con temblores y un cansancio mortal.
Comparando las dos experiencias con ayahuasca, achaqué los inconvenientes de la segunda a la mala organización. La reputación de la planta como herramienta espiritual no mermó un ápice.
Peter y yo fuimos a Iquitos en un barco que por dos noches y un dia nos tuvo de via crucis por el rio Marañon. Al día siguiente de llegar nos encontramos de casualidad con Federico y Steve, unos conocidos de Sucre. De nuevo la ayahuasca entró a colación-por ese entonces ya nos habíamos percatado de que la bebida se ha hecho muy popular entre los turistas y convertido en un negocio muy lucrativo para los chamanes de por aquí. Los chicos querían probarla y parecían mejor aconsejados que yo en mi ingesta nº2.
El lunes decidí probar suerte otra vez. La ayahuasca nº3 se realizó en un lugar precioso, en la selva. El chamán, joven, moderno, empático. La experiencia, mejor que la segunda, pero ni por asomo llegué a la conexión de la primera. Instantes de amor por mis amores, pero nada de aquel sentimiento universal. Lloré en instantes por perdidas y despedidas, pero poca compasión. Risitas y bromas visionarias, pero ni rastro de la carcajada continua de gozo sin fondo de la mencionada velada.
Ay ayahuasquita, porqué me niegas tus encantos! Tal vez aquella vez tuve la suerte del principiante, ausencia de espectativas, que son el origen de todos nuestros males. Quien sabe, quizas tenga la dicha de pasear por sus altas cimas alguna otra vez.
La Paz, Lake Titicaca and Isla del Sol June 20, 2008
Posted by andeandaremos in Bolivia, English.Tags: Isla del Sol, La Paz, Lake Titicaca, Shopping
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After Sucre, La Paz was a shock to the system. Cramped, hectic, and haphazard, it is safe to say that it is probably my least favourite place so far. Everything seemed to pale in comparison – the food we ate was poor, the hostel (Hostal Cactus) was horrible and I felt quite depressed to tell the truth!
Still, we had three reasons to come here: shopping, getting to Lake Titicaca and Peru and cycling down the ¨World`s Most Dangerous Road¨.
The World`s Most Dangerous Road
An exhilirating descent of 3,500 metres from the snowy mountain above La Paz through cloud forest to the sub-tropical rainforest of Coroico, all in under four hours. At times very scary, you pass dizzying drops and many gravestones of locals and tourists alike who have plunged to their deaths. Yes, I was mad to attempt it but we were in good hands and we did not pass any cars. You can probably understand why I didn`t mention is to my parents first…
If you are thinking of hurtling down this dangerously uneven, haphazard road then I can recommend B`Side Tours.
Shopping
More exhaustine than the bike ride, I`m not sure how well I did, and my only advice is to haggle, haggle, haggle! I think perhaps Domingo found the shopping more exhausting than I did as the very next day the Bolivian belly finally got to him and we had to spend an extra day in the ironically named La Paz.
Lake Titicaca and La Isla Del Sol
The next day, Domingo still felt ill but wanted to leave La Paz so we set off for Copacabana on the shores of Lake Titicaca. This time the bus journey was by day so we got to see the views as we approached the town.
Lake Titicaca is often described as the world`s highest navigable lake but, according to Lonely Planet, Chile beats that. Titicaca however, is immense and impressive. Copacabana itself is pretty little port town (in parts) with an enormous cathedral.
We settled in to another bleak hostel with no hot water and Domingo began to feel worse, probably brought on by the altitude. We both decided another relaxed day was in order for him so I set off on a boat for La Isla Del Sol.
The Incas believed Isla del Sol was the birthplace of the Sun God and there are supposedly a 180 ruins on this small island. I only actually visited one sight, instead choosing to just sit and look out at the lake. The sound of a flute accompanied me as I sat munching on a sandwich, looking out past the lake to the snow-capped mountains in the distance. The lake is a virulent cobalt and, on the Peruvian side, stretches out to the horizon. Pigs run about the island as freely as the children do, there being no risk of being run over by a speeding vehicle. The land is harsh yet every possible inch of it seems to be farmed.
The return journey was intensely irritating as was unable to escape listening to a flirtatious conversation between and Israeli and a Polish backpacker. I was so ecstatic to see Domingo at the port again and escape the boredom and discomfort I felt at being a lone traveller, even for just one day! We then set to trying to find the quickest route out of Copacabana and into Peru. We had had our fill of Bolivia.
Eating and drinking in Sucre June 18, 2008
Posted by andeandaremos in Bolivia, English, photos.Tags: api, buñuelo, crisalida, tojori
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Living and working in Sucre for so long meant that we were able to get into a routine easily as far as breakfast and lunch were concerned. From the first morning onwards we were pretty much faithful to the Mercado Central where we befriended various stallholders and quickly established a couple of breakfast patterns.
Breakfasts
The first stall we discovered was a fruit juice stall manned by a lovely lady keen to encourage us to try every juice on her list. At first I was reticent for the juices in Bolivia are mixed with milk and I`ve never been one for mixing fruit with milk. My first sip of tumbo (like passionfruit) with milk proved me wrong and from then I tried nearly every juice over the course of the month, repeating favourites such as coconut, papaya, passionfruit and, of all things, alfalfa and lime! The same stall also offers the most amazing fruit salads with yogurt, cereal (like sugar puffs).
Our next discovery was the coffee stall on the third floor that also serves pastel de queso (cheese pastry) which I renamed `pastel de aire con queso`as there is more air than cheese. Still tasty though, the pastels are deep fried in oil until they puff up and are served with caster sugar sprinkled over them.
In the last half of the month we ended up just coming for the coffee (nothing to rave about) for we had actually ventured to try the the extravagantly gaudy looking cakes on the ground floor and discovered that they were heavenly creations of light sponge, softly sweet cream and a moist, thin nutty spread. The ladies on the stall got used to us taking the cake up to eat with the coffee and were soon lending us plates and increasing the portion size.
The other stall I have to mention is one of the tojori stalls, manned by a Bolivian diva with a smooth line in banter and a knowing twinkle in her eye. This was the first time I’d come across a Bolivian from the lowland region (Santa Cruz) and the difference in character from the altiplano women was marked. She was warmer, more jovial and less reserved and it was a pleasure to sit at her stall and drink the addictive tojori, even if I could barely manage it after the huge slices of cake. Tojori is a warm drink made of maize, sugar and cinnamon. It is made by cooking the maize in water all night and adding the sugar and cinnamon. It’s thick, not too sweet and contains pieces of soft maize. After leaving Sucre, we tried some in La Paz and it was totally different and not very nice at all… I miss my Sucre Tojori!
Another popular drink in the markets and streets is api. It`s a sweet drink made with purple corn, lemon, sugar, cinnamon and sugar. Neither of us liked it very much but it`s a drink to try if you are in Bolivia. On each of these cafe or tojori and api stalls you will find buñuelos, which resemble mishapen doughnuts served sweet, both plain and scented with anise.
Lunches
The first few days in Sucre we ate our lunches in the market too. Then I was stricken with a stomach bug and spent the next six days barely eating anything. That put an end to our market lunches. This also coincided with our volunteering work up at Hogar Sucre, far up the hill from the market. The closest place to eat lunch was also the most beautiful – Cafe Mirador in Recoleta.
Blessed with beautiful views, the cafe has a lovely garden with tables and deckchairs perfect for whiling away a couple of hours. They serve delicious blended juices (all fruit), humongous omelettes, generous salads and much, much more. It’s perfect for a leisurely lunch but not so good when you are rushing to get back to the orphanage. We tried many techniques to speed lunchtimes up but the staff would not be rushed nor comply to accepting pre-orders. If you have time though, you must, must visit.
Dinner and Drinks
After reading Lonely Planet, you would be forgiven for thinking that the only restaurants in Sucre were along one street off the plaza plus a vegetarian in the other direction. For the sake of completeness, I`ll give a quick rating of some of these eateries before mentioning my absolute most favourite place in Sucre…
Joyride – unavoidable gringo haunt crammed to the rafters with beer-swilling backpackers looking for a Western vibe. Great hot chocolate, terrible coffee and so-so food, it isn`t actually that bad.
Bibliocafe 1 and 2 – overrated gringo bars offering the same menu in each but one bar has live music and the other is cosier. The food is below par but slightly redeemed by its Submarino (chocolate bar added to hot milk). I must applaud them though for hosting a benefit for the orphanage which helped both raise the profile of the Hogar and money for new games too.
La Vieja Bodega – Probably the best proper restaurant offering some traditional Bolivian fare, pasta dishes, very good salads and a great fondue. The atmosphere is classy and comfortable.
Monte Bianco – tiny Italian restaurant run by a very Italian Italian! Its deep red walls are strewn with minature reproduction of classic paintings by the likes of Velazques, Van Eick, Latrek, Monet, Degas and good old Italian rock and ska-punk competes with the occasional salsa music from the bar opposite the courtyard. A limited menu covers 5 pasta dishes, 4 pizzas (all that can be cooked in the oven), a couple of salads and a very tasty tiramisu. The one bottle of wine offered is perfectly drinkable and at 30Bs a bottle is half the price of other Sucre restaurants. Definitely worth a visit.
GRAND PRIZE – Crisalida.
If I ran a bar/cafe than I would want it to be like Crisalida. Arty, relaxed, good music, cheap prices, lovely staff, live acoustic music, film screenings, tasty food (try Naira’s menudito)… I cannot recommend it enough. Vanessa and Naira are fantastic owners and if anyone reading ever happens to pop in, give them our love!
How I Lost My Heart To Sucre June 16, 2008
Posted by andeandaremos in Bolivia, English, photos.Tags: crisalida, fox academy, Hogar Sucre, mural, sucre
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As soon as we arrived in Sucre, we decided we would stay a few days. The atmosphere is much different from the other altiplano towns we visited on our route. White stone buildings and palm trees instead of adobe houses and cacti. Well, cacti are still to be found in Sucre but there are plenty other more tropical plants too.
We settled in a cheap hostel called Hostal Potosi, which had an interesting take on hot water, a surfeit of fleas and a far more irritating infestation of Mennonites. To those of you ignorant of the Mennonite clan (as I was prior to meeting them), they are a group of Christian Anabaptist denominations named after Menno Simons (thanks Wikipedia). Committed to pacifism they may be, but friendly they most certainly are not. I am also not a fan of their chorale singing, which can be best described as a caterwauling drone.
We quickly decided to seek volunteering opportunities in Sucre and found a language school (Fox Academy) that both offered teaching opportunities and assitance in securing voluntary placements in local orphanages. At this point, I came down with Bolivian belly which left me bedridden for 5 days and well and truly off my food. Perhaps my eagerness to eat in the bustling market was a little foolhardy.
Feeling better one evening, I went to meet Domingo after his lesson teaching English and found him in conversation with a lively Bristolian named Steph. She too was interested in volunteering and mentioned a project in one of the orphanages to create a new games room for the children. A couple of days later, we popped up to the lovely Mirador Cafe for lunch and ran in to Steph again. This time, she was with Stephen, the project leader who quickly spied that Domingo had a sketchpad with him.
“Looks like we found our artist”.
With the help of others, Stephen had already built a partition wall to create a games room out of the previously cavernous dining room. Now he was in need of artists to paint a mural and help with the rest of the room. Thanks to the sketchbook, Domingo was now the mural designer and art director!
It was decided that the mural should be a jungle scene, with waterfalls and animals so Domingo quickly got to work sketching ideas. He was a little overwhelming to suddenly be tasked with creating an entire mural from scratch but I had faith…
The next day, we turned up at the Orphanage, Hogar Sucre. The orphanage is enormous in terms of space with football courts, a garden and even a horse. It is also very run down and need of a lot of work.
The first day, we joined Steph, Stephen and Marc in painting the walls white as an undercoat. The second day, two other girls joined, Michelle and Sarah, and Domingo began to sketch out a scene on the walls.
From then on, everything slowly began to take shape.
Domingo would sketch out a leaf or a tree and then Sarah or I would then get to work painting it in.
Unfortunately, after a couple of days of painting, we realised it is far more practical to paint your background first before doing fine detail.
Whilst we were busy with the one wall, Stephen and Marc began to construct the raised platform that would act as both the smaller children’s play area and the stage for the otder boys’ bands.
Michelle and Steph soldiered on with painting the other walls, ceilings and began to plan what we could fill the room with.
The mural seemed to then come together quickly. On the left of the wall we created a waterfall, then the jungle with insects, monkeys, parrots… Through the jungle we created a window to the salt flats with a llama and a flamingo to represent the altiplano! Climbing up the right side of the wall and disappearing into the jungle is a giant snake, which also acts a height chart. We then left a space to create a bush whose flowers would be the made up of the childrens hands.
As well as making friends with the other volunteers we also quickly found ourselves a social life in the town itself. Our first week was spent socialising with our Salt Flat friends before they left for pastures new. In our second week we discovered the best bar in Sucre, Crisalida. On our first night there we made friends with a Bolivian-German guy named Samuel who was in Sucre for a year. Soon after, on our second visit we befriended the owners, Naira and Vanessa and formed a strong bond.
The final week and Friday`s deadline for completing the orphanage was looming and there was much work to be done. Stephanie, Michelle, Sarah and Lizeth scoured the markets for paddling pools, balls, material for curtains, balloons etc… Then, Stephanie decided to set herself and the girls the challenge of creating bean bags from scratch.
On the Tuesday, two new volunteers appeared, Lottie and Rosie from Scotland. Casually, we asked them if they could they paint a world map on another wall in time for Friday. Just as casually they said yes and went off to research. I was a doubting Thomas and wondered if they would come back and by 11am the next morning I felt sure I was right. A short while later though, Rosie and Lottie walked in , grabbed some pencils and brushes and somehow managed to create a map of the world surrounded by flags in two days flat, without even seeming to break in to a sweat.
Michelle set to tackling the clouds and no doubt strengthening her arm muscles and Stephanie began to draw the patterns for the beanbags. Everyone was mucking in together and the dining room was a hive of activity. Domingo was asked to create some frames to hang pictures, coats or whatever the children wanted and came up with the idea of cartoon phrases. We set to painting them together on the last day and hung them up of the other two bare walls.
Stephen had done wonders sourcing a tennis table and table football game and Oxfam had donated a truck of toys. With the new floor layed (terribly by the professionals and therefore redone by the caretaker, Marc, Rosie and Lottie) everything could be taken in and set up. At the last minute, Stephanie rushed in the mot amazingly comfortable beanbags and the room was done.
The opening ceremony was great fun with local TV station, press and a radio station which interviewed me without informing me it was live.
The whole ceremony was so emotional and when it came to saying goodbye to the children we found it so hard to leave. Two hours later we were still there, sitting in the smallest boys room with the Orphanage administrator just chatting. Walking out of the orphanage was one of the saddest things I`ve done and I hope one day to go back.
Our last night in Sucre was spent at Naira and Vanessa`s housewarming. It was such a wonderful experience to have made such good friends so quickly that it made it even harder to leave. Not only had we had the most amazing experience in the orphanage and made great friends there but also we had seemingly built a life in the town itself with people we would have to leave behind. I wasn’t sure I even wanted to continue traveling…
De Tarapoto a Lagunas June 13, 2008
Posted by andeandaremos in Español, Peru.Tags: Acestur, charapa, huacamaillo, Juan Huallaga, Luis Gongora, Pacaya-Samiria, rafting rio Mayo, san antonio de cumbaza, tarapoto, yurimaguas
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Tarapoto.
Ciudad rodeada de colinitas selváticas. Lo primero que te salta al oído son los mototaxis, híbridos entre motos y
calesas que son el método locomotriz por excelencia de la zona. Aunque solícitas y baratas, sus trucados
motores emiten un ruido que sobrepasa la paciencia humana.
Después de un viaje de 14 horas por carreteras de montaña decidimos tomárnoslo con calma. Al mediodía fuimos a dar una vuelta por el mercado, donde nos agasajaron con lingotazos de los múltiples alcoholes locales presuntamente afrodisíacos, como el uvachado y el rompe calzones.
La atracción turística numero uno de Tarapoto es la catarata de Ahuashiyacu. Las ventajas de ésta entre las muchas otras de la región es su cercanía y su accesibilidad por carretera. El inconveniente (y eso lo supimos mas tarde) es que la carretera en cuestión se encuentra en obras y sólo se abre en ciertas horas y con ciertos permisos. Tuvimos que perder dos mañanas para averiguar eso.
Como alternativa nos propusieron otra catarata, la de Huacamaillo, de mas o menos 20 metros y que queda cerca del pueblo de San Antonio de Cumbaza. El mismo mototaxista que nos llevó hasta el pueblo nos acompañó en el camino para llegar a la catarata, ya que él tampoco la había visto nunca.
Pues que os voy a contar…genial.
Otro día hicimos rafting por el río Mayo. Nos guió un chico muy simpático y profesional.. Chupi lerendi.
De Tarapoto poco más, casi no hay turistas (al menos en estas fechas) la comida regular, aunque ya nos imaginábamos que en la selva no íbamos a comer como en Lima.
Yurimaguas y el trayecto en barco.
Nuestro plan después de Tarapoto consistía en ir en taxi hasta Yurimaguas (2 horas y media) y luego tomar un barco hasta Lagunas, puerta de entrada de la Reserva Pacaya Samiria, nuestro trocito de selva elegido para explorar.
El viernes de madrugada tomamos un taxi hacia Yurimaguas. El taxista nos tuvo una hora dando vueltas por Tarapoto para llenar el taxi. Intentó cobrarnos el doble por ir únicamente 2 pasajeros pero a mí me salió el genio de recién levantado y me negué a pagar un sol más.
Llegué a Yurimaguas mareado por las curvas del camino, aterrado por la manera de conducir del taxista y aplastado por las dos moles humanas que tenía por compañeros de asiento. Todavía no había parado el coche cuando varias cabezas asomaron por la ventana dándonos los buenos días y ofreciéndonos taxi e información.
Por un momento les quise gritar que se me dejaran en paz, pero luego nos dejamos llevar. Un mototaxista sonriente nos explicó los pormenores de viajar en el barco, nos guió por el mercado para comprar lo necesario (comida, tupper ware, cuchara, hamaca, agua). Un señor que nos había abordado a la llegada insistió amablemente en darnos información sobre la Reserva. Finalmente accedimos y así nos acompañó el resto la mañana.
El señor, de nombre Juan Huallaga, se dedica de captar turistas para ACESTUR, una de las asociaciones que organizan tours por la Reserva. Tras proveernos de varias pruebas de su veracidad nos llevó de la manita a un barco y luego a otro ya que presintió que el primero no partiría ese día, pese a que el tripulante aseguraba lo contrario. Al día siguiente comprobaríamos que fue así.
Juan tenía una libreta con las dedicatorias de varios turistas. Insistió en que las leyéramos para ganar nuestra confianza. Mi favorita fue la de un tal Josep María, que explicaba cómo se zafó de Juan para más tarde encontrarselo en el mercado y sucumbir a la comodidad de dejarse guiar. La última frase me sacó una carcajada: “Regategeu-lo tot”.
Seguimos el catalán consejo de Josep María y poco después acordamos viajar al día siguiente con ACESTUR por 80 soles por dia y persona,
El barco. Mi primera experiencia fluvial. La primera vez que viajo en hamaca. La primera también que tengo como compañeros de viaje a vacas y gallinas. Por suerte los animales estaban los suficientemente apartados para que su olor no nos penetrara.
Salvo las 3 horas de retraso el viaje fue muy bonito, con puesta de sol como momento estelar.
Por segundo día consecutivo nuestra jornada empezó en medio de la noche (4 am). Un poco aturdidos por tantos ires y venires llegamos a Lagunas, donde Luis Góngora, el presidente de ACESTUR. Igual de atento si cabe, nos invitó a dormir unas horas en su casa.
Pacaya-Samiria:
Esa misma mañana, sabado 7, empezamos el viaje por el parque. Hemos pasado 4 días subidos en una canoa de 5 metros (son preciosas, hechas de una sola pieza de una madera noble, esbeltas, sencillas y ligeras) con la compañia de nuestros guías Armando y Elmer. Por las noches dormimos en unas casas muy apañadas, comimos no muy mal y siempre fuimos atendidos como princesitas por nuestros guias. Si no preguntaron por nuestro estado mil veces no preguntaron ninguna.
El paisaje es precioso. tuvimos sol, lluvia, tormenta. Descubrimos lo difícil que es pillar a los animales in fraganti, un gesto o ruido de más y ya se han escapado de la vista. Aun así tuvimos la suerte de ver muchos monitos, garzas gigantes, delfines rosados y grises-¡incluso nadamos no muy lejos de unos cuantos!
Una noche fuimos de expedición. Los guías buscaban en la oscuridad los ojos brillantes de los cocodrilos. No hubo demasiada suerte con los bichos, pero la sensación de estar surcando un rio en la selva con la luz de la luna y ensordecidos por los sapos e insectos, fue una suerte en si.
No muchos turistas visitan esta reserva, pese a lo inmensa y rica que es. Otra de las ventajas de este parque es que los mismos guías son los guardaparques. Hacen un arduo trabajo de conservación y recuperación de fauna y flora, como por ejemplo la cría de las tortugas locales, llamadas charapas. Y no reciben un sol del gobierno, todo proviene de ONGs y del dinero de los visitantes. Al enterarme de esto me sentí más feliz todavía de estar aquí y poder ayudar a esta gente.
El martes por la noche fuimos a tomar ayahuasca.Y esta historia me apetece que sea el tema del próximo post.
chiclayo June 3, 2008
Posted by andeandaremos in Español, Peru.Tags: chiclayo, tarapoto
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Chiclayo, fea y ruidosa, el lugar donde nos hemos sentido mas guiris, cientos de personas nos decian “jelou” por la calle, los niños se quedaban embobados observandonos. Nos buscaron un buen numero de chiclayanas para casarnos, y nos dieron a probar comida por la calle.
En Lambayeque, mucho mas bonito, fuimos a visitar dos estupendos museos, el mas afamado de ellos se llama Tumbas Reales del Señor de Sipan. la historia es mas o menos como sigue: unos arqueologos encontraron en los años ochenta una tumba de un ricacho de hace 1700 años con un monton de oro y joyas. Lo interesante para mi de la exposicion es ver como se las vieron y desearon para adecentar lo que encontraron, asi como revivir la euforia que debieron sentir los descubridores. Ademas el museo es precioso.
Peter se empezo a sentir indispuesto y se fue de vuelta a la ciudad. Yo me di una vuelta solito por Tucume, donde se pueden ver un grupo de piramides de adobe desde un mirador (tienes que poner un poco de imaginacion para ver piramides en vez de montañas de tierra)
Poco mas en Chiclayo, ya que Peter siguio malito por un dia y medio. No sufrio demasiado porque en el hostal teniamos tv por cable y se puso tibio de telebasura yanqui. Bueno, algunas cosas no estaban tan mal.
El sabado por la noche nos animamos a salir. El lugar agraciado se llama Mirage y fue muy divertido. La gente bailaba desaforada y nosotros nos unimos como no.
El domingo nos dispusimos a viajar a Tarapoto. 14 horas de viaje, pero no fue tan horrible. Tarapoto ya esta en la selva, aunque rodeado de montañas. Tenemos unas ganas inmensas de explorarlo.
